Our lovely camp site among the trees just outside of KipoiMotorbikes and ancient stone bridges – I love a good juxtaposition!The view from our camp site to a football field in the middle of nowhere!The ladies packed and ready to go again, but were we?……that’s Kipoi in the background, we made it 3kms before stopping……at Gefiri Plakida, and ancient triple arched stone bridge……we felt it called for some random TRONO fun……it was just a matter of getting all of the annoyed and annoying British tourists out of sight first……but giving them a go on the TRONOs changed that completely!It was a stunning spot and the Plakidas Bridge was something else……and we made the most of relaxing and didn’t feel like we were in a rush at all……but we finally found some energy after a fantastic lunch in Kato Pedina……although the stunning scenery gave us an immense lift as well……and the riding was just fantastic too……as we made the most of the quality surfaces, ups and downs and round and rounds!The drama of the landscape was fantastic, but the drama of the afternoon wasn’t quite so great… …as Sam and Amand waited while Steve searched ahead in Arrenes for fuel as Amand’s bike was running pretty low!! We finally found some while running on fumes on the other side of Nestorio. it took some coasting down the hills to get there though!!!We stopped in Kastoria, a beautiful town on the shores of Lake Orestiada. Sam was feeling a bit low so stopped here in a hotel……while Steve and Amand headed into Albania by accident (a unmapped motorway took us there)… …although it did lead us to wade through Bilisht – tell me you’re not thinking what we were at the time!!And on into Prespa National Park on the border of FYROM (now North Macedonia)As the sun set, the views out onto Lake Prespa were quite special!Meanwhile, Sam relaxed in Kastoria……and enjoyed the serenity of the evening.
Day 38 – 3 Oct 2017 – Stenje to Ohrid (Macedonia)
Sam entered FYROM/Macedonia/North Macedonia the next morning as we had agreed to meet in Ohrid……as it happens he also got led down the unmapped highway, and through National Park Galichica. Here’s the view down to Stenje, where Amand and Steve camped at the far end of that beach just out of townSam found his way to the top of the mountain and took a moment……as it was pretty stunning……and he was feeling above the clouds……and Vera was flying!!!What a place for a TRONO!The sheer face on the Lake Ohrid side was pretty impressive, and we got to ride down……to the shores of Lake Ohrid, which turns out is a pretty special lake……including the Bay of Bones, a site where an ancient village was preserved underwater and able to be rescued.Amand and Steve arrived in Ohrid where Sam had made some friends, who had a boat!! They had invited us out for an afternoon cruise on Lake Ohrid……where Goran and his mates gave us a guided tour of the sites and tastes of Ohrid……here are Kire (front), Peter (right) and the other unnamed guy driving the boat……and feeding us local specialties of mastika and rakia (booze)……while pointing out the mafia bosses summer homes and hotels……not your average tour or day at the office……but we took it all in our stride……and admired and exclaimed about the beauty of the place.…it really was such a special treat and one of those opportunities you just have to be thankful for……due to the generosity of total strangers… …who obviously were just proud to show some foreigners their local area……and what a local area it was. I doubt any of us will ever forget this afternoon……or fun, laughs, generosity, booze……and hydroslides. The unnamed guy owned this slide into the lake……so we parked up the boat and made the most of it.The lake then glassed off so much it was almost surreal, but it was magical……while we just hung out and enjoyed some fantastic company……all the while marvelling over how lucky we were. While we were marvelling Peter had snuck off……and come back with chips and beer, meals of champions!!So we sat and talked all things life as you do it at times like these……just and amazing afternoon……but it had to come to an end so we got the boat ready……and headed back to town with smiles and huge amount of satisfaction and reassurance in fellow people……but there was one more stop to be had, for another local delicacy – fried plashica (similar to sardines) and another beer……before watching the sun set……and the moon rise on an astounding afternoon!!!
Day 39 – 4 Oct 2017 – Ohrid to Prizren (Kosovo)
We stayed in Goran;s uncle’s hotel, a final treat before hitting the road again, refreshed and ready……although we did bump into Goran and Kire again in the morning, where they invited us out for another day just like yesterday. With heavy hearts we had to decline……although we managed to admire the beauty of the old town of Ohrid one final time……as the lake and the mountains really sung… …but the ladies were ready and waiting now……so we showed them the beauty and got on our way.
It just have been a day for rebellion…
…what cheek to take a photo…
Amand and Sam headed off into Albania to some epic winding roads……and mountains stretching as far as we could see……and we rode past kids who were just happy to see us and running out for high fives and waves……there was a joy and happiness for the couple of hours we spent in Albania……where at about this spot (probably over halfway through), Sam realised he’d ridden this road before on a previous trip he’d had……but it didn’t matter as it was still beautiful and fun……although the gravel did call out, but we had a meeting arranged with Steve……in Prizren, Kosovo so headed on to the border at Morinë……while Steve, harnessing his earlier rebellious state was looking for a random entry into Kosovo via the Mavrovo National Park, which appeared to have no official border post……as it turns out he missed turn off and went into Kosovo on the normal route at Jazhintse.
